Walk Report: Fleetwith Pike, Great Gable & Pillar
This continues the account of my walking holiday in the Lake District over Easter:
Saturday 26th March
This day I felt rather tired and weak; I didn't really feeling like I had the energy for a full Lakeland walk but somehow I still managed to do a fairly strenuous walk even though I might have enjoyed it more in better circumstances. The walk started with a pleasurable stroll along the shore of Buttermere before beginning the seemingly unending ascent of Fleetwith Pike. There were tremendous views behind me as I undertook the great climb with good weather following me up but they weren't to last.
From the summit I headed past the quarry to the Drum House on the dismantled tramway onto the path opposite heading across the western slopes of Grey Knotts. Crossing the fence near Brandreth I bypassed the top of the hill and followed the cairns to Green Gable and brilliant views across the Borrowdale Fells all the way to the Langdale Pikes. I don't think I have ever been up here in such clear weather, even Great Gable was clear, which I have never been on in clear weather. I was really looking forward to enjoying the extensive views from the top but my curse was soon to strike. As I ascended Great Gable the clouds swept in, the temperature dropped and the wind picked up. What do I have to do to see anything from Great Gable?
I was able to get see the impressive views from the Westmorland Cairn but that did not make the descent to Beck Head any warmer or less windy. Bypassing Kirk Fell by the northern traverse I took the path from the Black Sail Pass over Looking Stead. My goal, even though I was very tired by this point, was the Shamrock Traverse to the Pillar Rock, which I have planned to do many times but never done. And still not done. Before I got to the Robinson Cairn I lost the path and eventually found myself ascending the hillside to the top of the ridge near Hinds Cove. When I realised my mistake it was too late to do something about it; I should have stayed on the level or even descended the hill side a little. Maybe I'll try the walk again some time (but not during this trip).
Following the main path I climbed onto the top of Pillar and admired the view from the northern edge looking out over the Pillar Rock and into Ennerdale. I decided that it was now time to leave the hilltops so I descended into the valley over White Pike (a steep stony descent, I don't suggest ascending it!). At the valley floor I was faced by the wide River Liza and no bridge for miles, so instead of walking a long way around I found a good spot and tried crossing the river. When my foot inevitably slipped into river on the wet rocks I decided to get across the river as fast as possible, no matter how wet I got. My socks and trousers are now drying! I am now in Ennerdale Youth Hostel, which is a much more basic hostel than Buttermere and much more to my liking.
Saturday 26th March
This day I felt rather tired and weak; I didn't really feeling like I had the energy for a full Lakeland walk but somehow I still managed to do a fairly strenuous walk even though I might have enjoyed it more in better circumstances. The walk started with a pleasurable stroll along the shore of Buttermere before beginning the seemingly unending ascent of Fleetwith Pike. There were tremendous views behind me as I undertook the great climb with good weather following me up but they weren't to last.
From the summit I headed past the quarry to the Drum House on the dismantled tramway onto the path opposite heading across the western slopes of Grey Knotts. Crossing the fence near Brandreth I bypassed the top of the hill and followed the cairns to Green Gable and brilliant views across the Borrowdale Fells all the way to the Langdale Pikes. I don't think I have ever been up here in such clear weather, even Great Gable was clear, which I have never been on in clear weather. I was really looking forward to enjoying the extensive views from the top but my curse was soon to strike. As I ascended Great Gable the clouds swept in, the temperature dropped and the wind picked up. What do I have to do to see anything from Great Gable?
I was able to get see the impressive views from the Westmorland Cairn but that did not make the descent to Beck Head any warmer or less windy. Bypassing Kirk Fell by the northern traverse I took the path from the Black Sail Pass over Looking Stead. My goal, even though I was very tired by this point, was the Shamrock Traverse to the Pillar Rock, which I have planned to do many times but never done. And still not done. Before I got to the Robinson Cairn I lost the path and eventually found myself ascending the hillside to the top of the ridge near Hinds Cove. When I realised my mistake it was too late to do something about it; I should have stayed on the level or even descended the hill side a little. Maybe I'll try the walk again some time (but not during this trip).
Following the main path I climbed onto the top of Pillar and admired the view from the northern edge looking out over the Pillar Rock and into Ennerdale. I decided that it was now time to leave the hilltops so I descended into the valley over White Pike (a steep stony descent, I don't suggest ascending it!). At the valley floor I was faced by the wide River Liza and no bridge for miles, so instead of walking a long way around I found a good spot and tried crossing the river. When my foot inevitably slipped into river on the wet rocks I decided to get across the river as fast as possible, no matter how wet I got. My socks and trousers are now drying! I am now in Ennerdale Youth Hostel, which is a much more basic hostel than Buttermere and much more to my liking.
posted by David Keates at 11:43 pm
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