Walk Report: Rhinog Fach & Rhinog Fawr
Now onto the last day of my weekend in Wales over the Bank Holiday, and I had amazing weather with clear views bright sunshine all day. You couldn't ask for a nicer Bank Holiday Monday; it didn't rain until after I had left the hills and was on my way home. The parking spot I had chosen for this walk was rather remote, but after the previous day it was a pleasure away from people for a couple of hours! Driving down the A470 from Capel Curig where I had overnighted I turned right off the road onto a small country road through two shut gates and over a cattle grid to bring me to the edge of a forest near the Rhinog Fawr National Nature Reserve (map ref: SH 6852 3021). Setting off through the forest I passed Graigddu-isaf and followed the signs to Bwlch Drws-Ardudwy (it was usually the yellow arrows that were pointing in the right direction).
Eventually I emerged from the forest with the two hills of the Rhinogs sitting in front of me. I stayed on the path for a bit before veering off to the left across the heather at the foot of Rhinog Fach looking for some semblance of a path up the north-eastern slopes. In the end I picked up a young stream that in the forest becomes the Afon Gau and followed that up the steep heather-clad hill-side. The going was tough as I followed anything that looked vaguely like a path sometimes walking up the stream itself just in an attempt to gain a little extra height. Just when things were looking grim I discovered a clear well-beaten path running up the hill towards the northern peak of the Rhinog (indeed it is probably the very same path that is marked on the map). Gladly following this path I ascended the final section of the hill onto the top of the small ridge that atops Rhinog Fach.
After taking in the stunning views all around especially across the pass to the awe-inspiring Rhinog Fawr I headed south along the top of the hill towards the summit at the southern end of the ridge. Here I had something to eat and reflected on the peacefulness of the surroundings and the utter lack of anyone else anywhere around me. A far cry from just yesterday. The descent was simple; I followed the stone wall that begins at the summit down to a wooden ladder and followed the path there south beside the wall down to the col between Rhinog Fach and Y Llethr. It was amazing to think that I had been on the top of that hill just two days previously and had gazed down at where I was standing but seen nothing in the low cloud. Now the skies were clear and the weather was fantastic.
Descending to Llyn Hywel I passed the first people I had seen all day, three men all walking together up Rhinog Fach. After exchanging pleasantries I beside the lake over the large stones on its northern shore and then descended the hill-side down past Llyn Cwmhosan to the plane at the top of Bwlch Drws-Ardudwy. Now ahead of me was a natural amphitheatre with seeming sheer wall of rock all around barring my progress onto Rhinog Fawr, however upon closer examination I saw a way up. North-east from the most northerly part of the conclave was an embankment of large stones and scree which appeared to show signs of previous passage. So began an absolutely fantastic walk up to the top of Rhinog Fawr. It began with a narrow passage through heather and then I was climbing over large stones before I reached a scree slope that I zig-zagged up. These different varieties of surfaces continued all the way up the steep hillside before the vague path plunged through a narrow gap between two great lumps of rock. A short scramble between the rocks brought me up onto a plateau where I found a clear path that brought me after a short time to the summit trig point. It was a thoroughly enjoyable ascent that enthused at every step; even now look back on it with fond memories.
I had not seen anyone during me long ascent and only seen those three men all day so it was quite a shock to discover the summit of Rhinog Fawr packed with people (all right, a slight exaggeration - there were no more than a dozen). These people had clearly come up the gentle slopes to the west unlike the route I was taking. In excellent weather on a Bank Holiday Monday I suppose it was unlikely I wouldn't see anyone else but after over half a days isolation all these people came as something of a shock! After finishing the remains of my lunch I headed steeply down the hill to the north-west (not via the east route) and joined a path that ran at the bottom of a steep rocky slope. Turning right along this path I headed towards Llyn Du descending very steeply down to the lake (these steep descents very quickly rid me of other people!). I was now in total enjoyment mode as I descended towards the eastern side of Bwlch Tyddiad.
Picking up the footpath through the pass turned east towards the forest. Entering the forest I followed the yellow arrows that led me beside the river past the Pistall Gwyn waterfalls back to Graigddu-isaf and thence back to my car. What an enjoyable walk in stunning scenery with excellent weather. The thing that I enjoyed the most this walk was that I'd picked challenging unorthodox routes up the mountains thereby missing all the people going up to Rhinog Fawr by the easier paths from Cwm Nantcol. The lesson to be learnt from this walk is that where you go is no way near as important as how you get there. If you want an interesting walk up a hill don't pick the easiest route up the hill; if weather conditions allow try a more challenging route. You'll get so much out of it. I know I did.
Eventually I emerged from the forest with the two hills of the Rhinogs sitting in front of me. I stayed on the path for a bit before veering off to the left across the heather at the foot of Rhinog Fach looking for some semblance of a path up the north-eastern slopes. In the end I picked up a young stream that in the forest becomes the Afon Gau and followed that up the steep heather-clad hill-side. The going was tough as I followed anything that looked vaguely like a path sometimes walking up the stream itself just in an attempt to gain a little extra height. Just when things were looking grim I discovered a clear well-beaten path running up the hill towards the northern peak of the Rhinog (indeed it is probably the very same path that is marked on the map). Gladly following this path I ascended the final section of the hill onto the top of the small ridge that atops Rhinog Fach.
After taking in the stunning views all around especially across the pass to the awe-inspiring Rhinog Fawr I headed south along the top of the hill towards the summit at the southern end of the ridge. Here I had something to eat and reflected on the peacefulness of the surroundings and the utter lack of anyone else anywhere around me. A far cry from just yesterday. The descent was simple; I followed the stone wall that begins at the summit down to a wooden ladder and followed the path there south beside the wall down to the col between Rhinog Fach and Y Llethr. It was amazing to think that I had been on the top of that hill just two days previously and had gazed down at where I was standing but seen nothing in the low cloud. Now the skies were clear and the weather was fantastic.
Descending to Llyn Hywel I passed the first people I had seen all day, three men all walking together up Rhinog Fach. After exchanging pleasantries I beside the lake over the large stones on its northern shore and then descended the hill-side down past Llyn Cwmhosan to the plane at the top of Bwlch Drws-Ardudwy. Now ahead of me was a natural amphitheatre with seeming sheer wall of rock all around barring my progress onto Rhinog Fawr, however upon closer examination I saw a way up. North-east from the most northerly part of the conclave was an embankment of large stones and scree which appeared to show signs of previous passage. So began an absolutely fantastic walk up to the top of Rhinog Fawr. It began with a narrow passage through heather and then I was climbing over large stones before I reached a scree slope that I zig-zagged up. These different varieties of surfaces continued all the way up the steep hillside before the vague path plunged through a narrow gap between two great lumps of rock. A short scramble between the rocks brought me up onto a plateau where I found a clear path that brought me after a short time to the summit trig point. It was a thoroughly enjoyable ascent that enthused at every step; even now look back on it with fond memories.
I had not seen anyone during me long ascent and only seen those three men all day so it was quite a shock to discover the summit of Rhinog Fawr packed with people (all right, a slight exaggeration - there were no more than a dozen). These people had clearly come up the gentle slopes to the west unlike the route I was taking. In excellent weather on a Bank Holiday Monday I suppose it was unlikely I wouldn't see anyone else but after over half a days isolation all these people came as something of a shock! After finishing the remains of my lunch I headed steeply down the hill to the north-west (not via the east route) and joined a path that ran at the bottom of a steep rocky slope. Turning right along this path I headed towards Llyn Du descending very steeply down to the lake (these steep descents very quickly rid me of other people!). I was now in total enjoyment mode as I descended towards the eastern side of Bwlch Tyddiad.
Picking up the footpath through the pass turned east towards the forest. Entering the forest I followed the yellow arrows that led me beside the river past the Pistall Gwyn waterfalls back to Graigddu-isaf and thence back to my car. What an enjoyable walk in stunning scenery with excellent weather. The thing that I enjoyed the most this walk was that I'd picked challenging unorthodox routes up the mountains thereby missing all the people going up to Rhinog Fawr by the easier paths from Cwm Nantcol. The lesson to be learnt from this walk is that where you go is no way near as important as how you get there. If you want an interesting walk up a hill don't pick the easiest route up the hill; if weather conditions allow try a more challenging route. You'll get so much out of it. I know I did.
posted by David Keates at 7:47 pm
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