The Lakes 2002, part 1
Here follows the report of my first ever walking holiday in the Lake District back in 2002.
Introduction
It was a strange holiday. Some things went spectacularly badly. Like for example on the first day I left my bank card at home and then lost my glasses on Loughrigg. Now that really did put a dampener on things. Then the persistent rain and hill fog didn't help. Even if it is possible to walk the fells in any weather it's not much fun if you don't know where you're going. It also it does help if your cagoule is waterproof (!).
The good things were some very enjoyable walks, mainly in the first week when the weather was better. The highlight was most definitely Sunday. My memory always goes back to that. It was perfect walking weather and I managed to cover a lot of hills. I also listened to the French Grand Prix on Radio 5 while walking on top of the hills, which I thoroughly enjoyed adding to the enjoyment of the day. I would like to go back (if only to have another look for my glasses!).
I stayed in some good hostels while in the Lake District; Eskdale wasn't much fun and I really didn't like Patterdale, but Borrowdale and Buttermere were two very nice hostels that it would be a pleasure to go back to. I liked Coniston Coppermines as well for its small isolated location. It's just a pity the weather let us down. But I suppose it is the Lake District.
These notes were written at the end of each day while in the Youth Hostel. They were then typed up after I returned home for the holiday.
Monday 15th July
What a disaster. My first day has been an utter disaster.
The day started with me leaving my Barclays Connect card at home, so I had no money for the rest of the holiday. But the ultimate which has really pissed me off is losing my glasses on a hill. I had them hanging rather carelessly on my trousers, and then later realised I didn't have them. I spent an hour franticly searching for them but to no avail. They had disappeared. I can't understand where they could have gone. I was really upset about this because I have had those glasses for a long time (6 years). I'm going to miss them. [Typing this up now after buying a new pair I'm still really gutted. The new pair is just not the same and I would give anything to have my old pair back. It's amazing how I could have been so attached to them].
It has occurred to me that it might be an idea to return when all the bracken has died off. It might be easier to find. But [that] won't be for months. I am really upset about this. It has put a real dampener on the holiday.
To what I did today: Once I arrived in Ambleside I went to the Bank and managed to persuade them to part with some money. Hopefully it will be enough or I will have to try and convince them again later. After the Bank I went up the hill side to visit Stockghyll Force. It was much like any other waterfall really. From there I walked to Rydall Hall and thence to Loughrigg Fell, which was where I lost my glasses. Once I gave up looking for my glasses I walked to the summit and then down to Grasmere where I am now. Apart from those two rather major events things have not gone too badly. The hostel isn't bad and the company is pleasant. Let's hope the rest of the holiday is better than today has been.
Tuesday 16th July
This day was better but I still forgot to collect my lunch from Grasmere before I left. I don't think I'll bother with a packed lunch in the future. I had some mint cake and that would seem to be sufficient. I left Grasmere before 9 am and headed up Silver How. I didn't go to the top but skirted the edge before going down into Great Langdale at Walthwaite. I quickly crossed the valley and passed over the hill through the green slate quarry to the more secluded and picturesque Little Langdale. From there I walked to Tilberthwaite Gill at the foot of Wetherlam. It was now about lunch time. After a rest I started the long slog up Wetherlam. The weather was blisteringly hot and it was very hard-going especially on the last scramble up to the top. I thought I would never reach the top however I did eventually get to the top, my first proper Lakeland peak (Loughrigg doesn't really count being only 335m). From there I walked down to Swirl Hawse and up (another scramble) to Swirl How. The temperature had dropped by now with the top of Swirl How covered in mist. I walked to Great Carrs to bag it and then came back round to Levers Hawse. From there I took a very steep slope down over loose scree. It was very tricky but I made it down to Levers Water and on to the Youth Hostel at Coniston Coppermines.
This is a nice small hostel with a pleasant lively crowd. A guy I met at the Hostel in Grasmere is here which is pleasant. I spent some of the evening reading the Bibles on the bookshelf. The comments I got were interesting. Christianity was considered all but dead with a mere handful going to church. NO! It does show how Britain has changed. [Incidentally a verse that I'd read that evening that spoke to me was Isaiah 30:21. It basically says that God will direct your path, "This is your way; walk in it." Seemed rather appropriate.]
Wednesday 17th July
Almost left my shampoo at the hostel this morning. I've done that a couple of times before on other holidays. It really is ridiculous the way I keep on losing things. But nothing compares with losing my glasses. I keep thinking of going back to Loughrigg to look for them. But I might have more success when the heather has all died off. But that'll be the winter. I suppose it's something I could do on my last day!
Today I walked up The Old Man of Coniston. Now that was a bit of a slog. These climbs are really taking it out of me. After resting up at the top I bagged Brim Fell then went across Goats Hawse to the other peaks [Dow Crag, Buck Pike & Brown Pike]. From there I walked down into the Duddon Valley and then over the hill into Eskdale. Since I'd got to Eskdale a little early to get into the Hostel I took a walk along the river. A complete waste of time [I had been trying to find the waterfalls, but didn't have a clue what I was doing really].
This hostel isn't too bad but it has no atmosphere. No friendly company here [It was full with a school party, my dinner companions were the teachers]. Well, onto Scafell Pike tomorrow.
Thursday 18th July
It was a very long walk today. Really it was the biggy. I have been looking forward to that walk for ages. I left Eskdale Youth Hostel really early, before 9 am in brilliant sunshine, hardly a cloud in the sky. That didn't last long as it clouded over getting rather dark over the hills but never actually raining. I slogged it up Scafell taking 3 hours to get to the top. But when I got there I didn't stop - I didn't even realise I was there! I immediately headed for Scafell Pike. But that's not easy. It involved a difficult scramble down a scree slope to Foxes Tarn and down rocks before a scramble up another scree slope. I eventually managed to get up to Scafell Pike after 1 pm only to find it covered in low cloud. It wasn't there before and it disappeared soon after I left. Just my luck I guess.
From the Pike I proceeded along the ridge passing Broad Crag, Ill Crag and ending at Great End. It was now 2 pm and I decided I'd better start going down so I went to Sty Head and took the footpath down, not the Bridlepath. Although a lot more tricky (ie more fun clambering around the rocks) the up close view of Taylor Gill Force made it all worthwhile.
Towards the end of the walk near Seathwaite a lace on my boots caught on the other boot. Now this has happened before, earlier today for one. Most of the time my sense of balance is able to prevent me falling over. Not this time. The waist strap on my rucksack came apart freeing the rucksack to swing up over my head hurling me forwards and down. Before I knew it I was on my hands and knees and my head was hitting the rock covered floor. Painful! Luckily nothing has been damaged & I'm not particularly hurt. It could have been a lot worse. It was a scary experience. Not something to be repeated!
I'm now in Borrowdale hostel which is nice and friendly. No large school parties here like at Eskdale. Good thing too, I'm here for two days!
Friday 19th July
It's not been a good day. But it's not my fault this time. It's been raining all day. [And I have learnt that my cagoule isn't waterproof - I got soaked]. I had planned on going up Great Gable today but that has had to go by the board. Perhaps later.
Instead I did the wet weather walk that I had planned for today. I walked along Borrowdale to the shore of Derwent Water [it was an interesting walk over the marsh lands on raised boards]. After visiting Lodore Falls I went up the valley to Watendlath. From there I took the Bridlepath back to the hostel [I had considered walking off elsewhere over the fell-side, but I really couldn't be bothered in the rain. The problem was the discomfort from being wet and hot from a cagoule that is almost useless in these conditions]. I spent the rest of the afternoon listening to the radio and finishing off Terry Pratchett's "Soul Music" [I'd started the book on the train up and had been reading it subsequent evenings. In the end I left it behind at Borrowdale YH!]. This evening I began reading Dorothy L Sayers' "Lord Peter Views The Body". [I also read the introduction to "Star Wars" by George Lucas. It was interesting to see how that film was originally considered a bit of a risk. Isn't hindsight a wonderful thing.] Tomorrow I'm off to Buttermere. After my rest day today [!] I hope we'll have clear weather so I can go up Great Gable tomorrow. Now that strikes me as being a good idea. We'll have to see.
part 2
Lake District 2002
Introduction
It was a strange holiday. Some things went spectacularly badly. Like for example on the first day I left my bank card at home and then lost my glasses on Loughrigg. Now that really did put a dampener on things. Then the persistent rain and hill fog didn't help. Even if it is possible to walk the fells in any weather it's not much fun if you don't know where you're going. It also it does help if your cagoule is waterproof (!).
The good things were some very enjoyable walks, mainly in the first week when the weather was better. The highlight was most definitely Sunday. My memory always goes back to that. It was perfect walking weather and I managed to cover a lot of hills. I also listened to the French Grand Prix on Radio 5 while walking on top of the hills, which I thoroughly enjoyed adding to the enjoyment of the day. I would like to go back (if only to have another look for my glasses!).
I stayed in some good hostels while in the Lake District; Eskdale wasn't much fun and I really didn't like Patterdale, but Borrowdale and Buttermere were two very nice hostels that it would be a pleasure to go back to. I liked Coniston Coppermines as well for its small isolated location. It's just a pity the weather let us down. But I suppose it is the Lake District.
These notes were written at the end of each day while in the Youth Hostel. They were then typed up after I returned home for the holiday.
Monday 15th July
What a disaster. My first day has been an utter disaster.
The day started with me leaving my Barclays Connect card at home, so I had no money for the rest of the holiday. But the ultimate which has really pissed me off is losing my glasses on a hill. I had them hanging rather carelessly on my trousers, and then later realised I didn't have them. I spent an hour franticly searching for them but to no avail. They had disappeared. I can't understand where they could have gone. I was really upset about this because I have had those glasses for a long time (6 years). I'm going to miss them. [Typing this up now after buying a new pair I'm still really gutted. The new pair is just not the same and I would give anything to have my old pair back. It's amazing how I could have been so attached to them].
It has occurred to me that it might be an idea to return when all the bracken has died off. It might be easier to find. But [that] won't be for months. I am really upset about this. It has put a real dampener on the holiday.
To what I did today: Once I arrived in Ambleside I went to the Bank and managed to persuade them to part with some money. Hopefully it will be enough or I will have to try and convince them again later. After the Bank I went up the hill side to visit Stockghyll Force. It was much like any other waterfall really. From there I walked to Rydall Hall and thence to Loughrigg Fell, which was where I lost my glasses. Once I gave up looking for my glasses I walked to the summit and then down to Grasmere where I am now. Apart from those two rather major events things have not gone too badly. The hostel isn't bad and the company is pleasant. Let's hope the rest of the holiday is better than today has been.
Tuesday 16th July
This day was better but I still forgot to collect my lunch from Grasmere before I left. I don't think I'll bother with a packed lunch in the future. I had some mint cake and that would seem to be sufficient. I left Grasmere before 9 am and headed up Silver How. I didn't go to the top but skirted the edge before going down into Great Langdale at Walthwaite. I quickly crossed the valley and passed over the hill through the green slate quarry to the more secluded and picturesque Little Langdale. From there I walked to Tilberthwaite Gill at the foot of Wetherlam. It was now about lunch time. After a rest I started the long slog up Wetherlam. The weather was blisteringly hot and it was very hard-going especially on the last scramble up to the top. I thought I would never reach the top however I did eventually get to the top, my first proper Lakeland peak (Loughrigg doesn't really count being only 335m). From there I walked down to Swirl Hawse and up (another scramble) to Swirl How. The temperature had dropped by now with the top of Swirl How covered in mist. I walked to Great Carrs to bag it and then came back round to Levers Hawse. From there I took a very steep slope down over loose scree. It was very tricky but I made it down to Levers Water and on to the Youth Hostel at Coniston Coppermines.
This is a nice small hostel with a pleasant lively crowd. A guy I met at the Hostel in Grasmere is here which is pleasant. I spent some of the evening reading the Bibles on the bookshelf. The comments I got were interesting. Christianity was considered all but dead with a mere handful going to church. NO! It does show how Britain has changed. [Incidentally a verse that I'd read that evening that spoke to me was Isaiah 30:21. It basically says that God will direct your path, "This is your way; walk in it." Seemed rather appropriate.]
Wednesday 17th July
Almost left my shampoo at the hostel this morning. I've done that a couple of times before on other holidays. It really is ridiculous the way I keep on losing things. But nothing compares with losing my glasses. I keep thinking of going back to Loughrigg to look for them. But I might have more success when the heather has all died off. But that'll be the winter. I suppose it's something I could do on my last day!
Today I walked up The Old Man of Coniston. Now that was a bit of a slog. These climbs are really taking it out of me. After resting up at the top I bagged Brim Fell then went across Goats Hawse to the other peaks [Dow Crag, Buck Pike & Brown Pike]. From there I walked down into the Duddon Valley and then over the hill into Eskdale. Since I'd got to Eskdale a little early to get into the Hostel I took a walk along the river. A complete waste of time [I had been trying to find the waterfalls, but didn't have a clue what I was doing really].
This hostel isn't too bad but it has no atmosphere. No friendly company here [It was full with a school party, my dinner companions were the teachers]. Well, onto Scafell Pike tomorrow.
Thursday 18th July
It was a very long walk today. Really it was the biggy. I have been looking forward to that walk for ages. I left Eskdale Youth Hostel really early, before 9 am in brilliant sunshine, hardly a cloud in the sky. That didn't last long as it clouded over getting rather dark over the hills but never actually raining. I slogged it up Scafell taking 3 hours to get to the top. But when I got there I didn't stop - I didn't even realise I was there! I immediately headed for Scafell Pike. But that's not easy. It involved a difficult scramble down a scree slope to Foxes Tarn and down rocks before a scramble up another scree slope. I eventually managed to get up to Scafell Pike after 1 pm only to find it covered in low cloud. It wasn't there before and it disappeared soon after I left. Just my luck I guess.
From the Pike I proceeded along the ridge passing Broad Crag, Ill Crag and ending at Great End. It was now 2 pm and I decided I'd better start going down so I went to Sty Head and took the footpath down, not the Bridlepath. Although a lot more tricky (ie more fun clambering around the rocks) the up close view of Taylor Gill Force made it all worthwhile.
Towards the end of the walk near Seathwaite a lace on my boots caught on the other boot. Now this has happened before, earlier today for one. Most of the time my sense of balance is able to prevent me falling over. Not this time. The waist strap on my rucksack came apart freeing the rucksack to swing up over my head hurling me forwards and down. Before I knew it I was on my hands and knees and my head was hitting the rock covered floor. Painful! Luckily nothing has been damaged & I'm not particularly hurt. It could have been a lot worse. It was a scary experience. Not something to be repeated!
I'm now in Borrowdale hostel which is nice and friendly. No large school parties here like at Eskdale. Good thing too, I'm here for two days!
Friday 19th July
It's not been a good day. But it's not my fault this time. It's been raining all day. [And I have learnt that my cagoule isn't waterproof - I got soaked]. I had planned on going up Great Gable today but that has had to go by the board. Perhaps later.
Instead I did the wet weather walk that I had planned for today. I walked along Borrowdale to the shore of Derwent Water [it was an interesting walk over the marsh lands on raised boards]. After visiting Lodore Falls I went up the valley to Watendlath. From there I took the Bridlepath back to the hostel [I had considered walking off elsewhere over the fell-side, but I really couldn't be bothered in the rain. The problem was the discomfort from being wet and hot from a cagoule that is almost useless in these conditions]. I spent the rest of the afternoon listening to the radio and finishing off Terry Pratchett's "Soul Music" [I'd started the book on the train up and had been reading it subsequent evenings. In the end I left it behind at Borrowdale YH!]. This evening I began reading Dorothy L Sayers' "Lord Peter Views The Body". [I also read the introduction to "Star Wars" by George Lucas. It was interesting to see how that film was originally considered a bit of a risk. Isn't hindsight a wonderful thing.] Tomorrow I'm off to Buttermere. After my rest day today [!] I hope we'll have clear weather so I can go up Great Gable tomorrow. Now that strikes me as being a good idea. We'll have to see.
part 2
posted by David Keates at 6:15 pm
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