Lakes 2003, part 2
Sunday 20th July 2003
I’m a little annoyed about today. Things didn’t go very well. At least it has taught me certain things. The weather forecast for today appeared to be showers in the morning and heavy rain and thunder in the afternoon. I took this to mean I ought to go to Keswick as quickly as possible. I decided to miss out Dale Head and walk up Tongue Gill past the disused Rigghead Quarries up to High Spy and proceed north along the ridge. It did indeed rain and quite heavily at times but it was an enjoyable walk with clear views despite the rain. However when I got to Cat Bells the sun came out and stayed out for most of the afternoon. I felt cheated by the weather forecast. Not only have I failed to walk up Dale Head two years running but I have had to spend most of the afternoon wandering around Keswick. The British Grand Prix was on but instead of listening to it on top of the ridge I was walking through the streets towards Keswick and the reception on the radio was much worse. When I think back to the enjoyment of listening to the Grand Prix last year I am rather annoyed and disappointed. The race seemed to be very good with Barrichello winning in a brilliant fashion out racing everyone. Montoya was second, Raikonnen was third, and Schuey was still there, fourth. I look forward to watching the race when I get home.
Book-wise I started “The Girl of the Sea of Cortez” by Peter Benchley but it wasn’t inspiring me so I later resumed reading Lord Peter. Tomorrow the target is Blencathra.
Monday 21st July 2003
It’s been a rather disastrous day in one respect. I’ve lost my wallet, my YHA card, debit card and £30. I have no idea where it is; I’ve looked all around and asked at the hostel and the bank: nothing. Isn’t it just typical?!
The walk today started from Mungrisdale, which I caught a bus to. I walked up on to the ridge just north-west of the village and walked along it to the top of Bowscale Fell and then proceeded south-south-west towards Blencathra. I avoided Sharp Edge because it was damp, very windy and I’m a coward; so I walked up the hillside over Blue Screes to the top of Atkinson Pike. This took me above the cloud line and so I had to proceed in total white-out past the white crosses on the ground up the fellside to Hallsfell Top and the summit of Blencathra. Unfortunately there was no view to see but I’m sure it would have been spectacular. From the top I passed along the top of the ridge to the western end and steeply descended Blease Fell to the Blencathra Centre. Following the footpath signs through the fields I descended to the Keswick Railway footpath and walked back to Keswick along this magnificent old railway bed. I got back to the hostel at 2.15, which was a little early, but as it turned out I needed the time. While on the walk I discovered that I didn’t have my wallet. Back in the hostel I had a good look around but couldn’t find it. So I had to go to Barclays and report the card lost and ironically get some money from the same branch I had tried to get some money from last year without identification. This has been really annoying, I just hope no one been helping themselves to my money! This evening in the hostel I have been reading the Peter Benchley book. I thought I might as well read all of it. Well, it’s Skiddaw tomorrow.
Tuesday 22nd July 2003
It’s beginning to look like the weather will get worse and worse. In fact the weather has got worse throughout the whole holiday. So I don’t think I’ll get much walking done while at Helvellyn. Today I had planned to walk up Skiddaw; I never got there. I walked up the river Derwent following the Allerdale Ramble across the fields till I got to Thornthwaite Forest. I steeply ascended the wood till I got to a forest road and then followed it north through the wood till I had left the wood and was at the foot of “The Edge”. Now at the time it was raining, it was windy and the cloud level was about 1000 feet. I had planned on walking up The Edge to Skiddaw but it didn’t strike me as being a fun walk in the weather conditions. If I had someone with me who was willing to go I would have done it but in the end I returned to the wood going to the main car park and consulted the map there for any way-marked walks in the wood. Two things struck me as worth looking at: an osprey watch and Dodd summit. So I had a look through telescopes at the only ospreys in England and then ascended Dodd. At 1612 feet it wasn’t much of a mountain but now that all the trees have been cleared from the summit there were some good views to be had. The cloud level had risen to above 2000 feet so I considered having another attempt of going up Skiddaw from Dodd via Carl Side. In the end I decided against it and descended the wood alongside Scalebeck Gill coming out of the wood near Millbeck. It was then a simple matter to follow road and path along the Allerdale Ramble back to Keswick. In the event the day has provided an enjoyable full day’s walk. I just hope I can do more walks in the three remaining days of this holiday. In the hostel I finished “The Girl of the Sea of Cortez”, a mediocre book by Peter Benchley and, after a final walk around Keswick read some more of Lord Peter. Helvellyn tomorrow.
Wednesday 23rd July 2003
The weather is getting worse and worse; the walk today was in some amazing conditions with wind and rain slashing down. I started the day doing a final look for my wallet, even going to the police station to ask there but to no avail. So I started the walk down the Railway footpath following it all the way to Threlkeld. That was where I had to make a decision. Do I go onto the hills or take the low-level route? Well, the weather had turned bad, the cloud level was 1,500 feet and it was raining. Eventually I made the decision, for the second day running, that a high level walk was out of the question. So, almost having to double back on myself for a bit, I headed down St. John’s in the Vale across the fields down to Legburthwaite. It was still raining. After a quick lunch I started up the Sticks Pass. It was all right to begin with but as I got higher the wind really began to blow and the rain started lashing into my face. It was terrible conditions. I loved it!
I struggled up the pass getting wetter and wetter from a leak in the Gore-Tex lining in my right boot. Soon I had a very sodden foot. Apart from that the wet wasn’t really a problem for me. I could have continued walking in the rain much longer and did, all the way over the pass and down the other side past the remains of Greenside mine and down to the youth hostel. It was an interesting walk, it was just a pity the weather was so bad. Maybe the weather will improve tomorrow. Fat Chance.
Thursday 24th July 2003
This is the last full day of my holiday; I go home tomorrow. It has been a long holiday and I think I am ready to go home. Today the weather has been much better than yesterday, it only rained a little this morning so despite being windy with low cloud it’s been good. I walked up the valley from the hostel up to Whiteside. Then turning around I headed north along the ridge over Raise, Stybarrow Dodd, Watson’s Dodd and Great Dood. These are the peaks I’d planned on walking over yesterday. I stopped for lunch on Great Dodd and pondered where to go next; since I had ran out of high fells I had no choice but to retrace my steps. Returning to Stybarrow Dodd I headed east over White Stones and descended Southeast down the slope at Glencoyne Head. I then ascended the much smaller fell of Sheffield Pike, which being smaller was below the cloud level and gave me tremendous views over Ullswater and up at all the fells around. They were the highlight of the walk. Descending over Heron Pike I headed down into Glenridding just in time to see two coaches full of old women swarming around the souvenir shops. I quickly headed back up the valley and returned to the hostel. Tomorrow I plan on going over St Sunday Crag en route to either Grasmere or Ambleside where I will catch a bus to the station and thence, home.
Friday 25th July 2003
The final walk of the holiday involved walking along Glenridding and up the sides to Lanty’s Tarn before descending into Grisedale. The weather seemed to be improving so I decided to walk up onto the opposite ridge beneath Birks and onto St Sunday Crag. Continuing along the ridge I descended onto Deepdale Hause and the climbed onto Fairfield. After lunch in the clouds I headed off Fairfield onto Hart Crag and thence to Dove Crag down the ridge over High Pike and Low Pike all the way into Ambleside. It was a good walk staying dry and I had some good views when below the cloud level of about 2,500 feet. I caught the bus in Ambleside to the railway station and thence the train home. It was a satisfying end of a good holiday.
Endnote:
Once again it is fascinating to read this more than two years and a lot of hills later. It still astonishes me how inexperienced I was just two years ago. My equipment by this time was up to scratch but I still lacked experience on hills away from the Brecon Beacons. At this time I had never been up any mountain in Snowdonia even Snowdon itself and it wasn’t until later that year that I began build up my confidence in walking in bad weather. The reports showed I was still at this time avoiding bad weather and staying low when it rained. I missed out on going up so many hills during this trip simply because of what I thought the weather would be like, which was prudent at the time, but I think more than anything it taught me about the changeability of the weather.
The very hot weather at the start of the holiday also taught me a number of things. Firstly that factor 8 is unsuitable and I now use factor 15 sun cream. I also decided that as an added protection against the sun I needed a wide-brimmed hat to protect my neck which seems to be particularly sensitive. I have always worn a baseball cap when walking but on this occasion it was found to be not good enough. I now take a sun hat with me as well and have found many times that it works very well. Despite all the things I still had to learn about hill walking I had great time during that holiday. I did some great walks and I will never forget those two days at Black Sail Hut. It was a magical time; just a pity that the whole holiday wasn’t as trouble free.
I’m a little annoyed about today. Things didn’t go very well. At least it has taught me certain things. The weather forecast for today appeared to be showers in the morning and heavy rain and thunder in the afternoon. I took this to mean I ought to go to Keswick as quickly as possible. I decided to miss out Dale Head and walk up Tongue Gill past the disused Rigghead Quarries up to High Spy and proceed north along the ridge. It did indeed rain and quite heavily at times but it was an enjoyable walk with clear views despite the rain. However when I got to Cat Bells the sun came out and stayed out for most of the afternoon. I felt cheated by the weather forecast. Not only have I failed to walk up Dale Head two years running but I have had to spend most of the afternoon wandering around Keswick. The British Grand Prix was on but instead of listening to it on top of the ridge I was walking through the streets towards Keswick and the reception on the radio was much worse. When I think back to the enjoyment of listening to the Grand Prix last year I am rather annoyed and disappointed. The race seemed to be very good with Barrichello winning in a brilliant fashion out racing everyone. Montoya was second, Raikonnen was third, and Schuey was still there, fourth. I look forward to watching the race when I get home.
Book-wise I started “The Girl of the Sea of Cortez” by Peter Benchley but it wasn’t inspiring me so I later resumed reading Lord Peter. Tomorrow the target is Blencathra.
Monday 21st July 2003
It’s been a rather disastrous day in one respect. I’ve lost my wallet, my YHA card, debit card and £30. I have no idea where it is; I’ve looked all around and asked at the hostel and the bank: nothing. Isn’t it just typical?!
The walk today started from Mungrisdale, which I caught a bus to. I walked up on to the ridge just north-west of the village and walked along it to the top of Bowscale Fell and then proceeded south-south-west towards Blencathra. I avoided Sharp Edge because it was damp, very windy and I’m a coward; so I walked up the hillside over Blue Screes to the top of Atkinson Pike. This took me above the cloud line and so I had to proceed in total white-out past the white crosses on the ground up the fellside to Hallsfell Top and the summit of Blencathra. Unfortunately there was no view to see but I’m sure it would have been spectacular. From the top I passed along the top of the ridge to the western end and steeply descended Blease Fell to the Blencathra Centre. Following the footpath signs through the fields I descended to the Keswick Railway footpath and walked back to Keswick along this magnificent old railway bed. I got back to the hostel at 2.15, which was a little early, but as it turned out I needed the time. While on the walk I discovered that I didn’t have my wallet. Back in the hostel I had a good look around but couldn’t find it. So I had to go to Barclays and report the card lost and ironically get some money from the same branch I had tried to get some money from last year without identification. This has been really annoying, I just hope no one been helping themselves to my money! This evening in the hostel I have been reading the Peter Benchley book. I thought I might as well read all of it. Well, it’s Skiddaw tomorrow.
Tuesday 22nd July 2003
It’s beginning to look like the weather will get worse and worse. In fact the weather has got worse throughout the whole holiday. So I don’t think I’ll get much walking done while at Helvellyn. Today I had planned to walk up Skiddaw; I never got there. I walked up the river Derwent following the Allerdale Ramble across the fields till I got to Thornthwaite Forest. I steeply ascended the wood till I got to a forest road and then followed it north through the wood till I had left the wood and was at the foot of “The Edge”. Now at the time it was raining, it was windy and the cloud level was about 1000 feet. I had planned on walking up The Edge to Skiddaw but it didn’t strike me as being a fun walk in the weather conditions. If I had someone with me who was willing to go I would have done it but in the end I returned to the wood going to the main car park and consulted the map there for any way-marked walks in the wood. Two things struck me as worth looking at: an osprey watch and Dodd summit. So I had a look through telescopes at the only ospreys in England and then ascended Dodd. At 1612 feet it wasn’t much of a mountain but now that all the trees have been cleared from the summit there were some good views to be had. The cloud level had risen to above 2000 feet so I considered having another attempt of going up Skiddaw from Dodd via Carl Side. In the end I decided against it and descended the wood alongside Scalebeck Gill coming out of the wood near Millbeck. It was then a simple matter to follow road and path along the Allerdale Ramble back to Keswick. In the event the day has provided an enjoyable full day’s walk. I just hope I can do more walks in the three remaining days of this holiday. In the hostel I finished “The Girl of the Sea of Cortez”, a mediocre book by Peter Benchley and, after a final walk around Keswick read some more of Lord Peter. Helvellyn tomorrow.
Wednesday 23rd July 2003
The weather is getting worse and worse; the walk today was in some amazing conditions with wind and rain slashing down. I started the day doing a final look for my wallet, even going to the police station to ask there but to no avail. So I started the walk down the Railway footpath following it all the way to Threlkeld. That was where I had to make a decision. Do I go onto the hills or take the low-level route? Well, the weather had turned bad, the cloud level was 1,500 feet and it was raining. Eventually I made the decision, for the second day running, that a high level walk was out of the question. So, almost having to double back on myself for a bit, I headed down St. John’s in the Vale across the fields down to Legburthwaite. It was still raining. After a quick lunch I started up the Sticks Pass. It was all right to begin with but as I got higher the wind really began to blow and the rain started lashing into my face. It was terrible conditions. I loved it!
I struggled up the pass getting wetter and wetter from a leak in the Gore-Tex lining in my right boot. Soon I had a very sodden foot. Apart from that the wet wasn’t really a problem for me. I could have continued walking in the rain much longer and did, all the way over the pass and down the other side past the remains of Greenside mine and down to the youth hostel. It was an interesting walk, it was just a pity the weather was so bad. Maybe the weather will improve tomorrow. Fat Chance.
Thursday 24th July 2003
This is the last full day of my holiday; I go home tomorrow. It has been a long holiday and I think I am ready to go home. Today the weather has been much better than yesterday, it only rained a little this morning so despite being windy with low cloud it’s been good. I walked up the valley from the hostel up to Whiteside. Then turning around I headed north along the ridge over Raise, Stybarrow Dodd, Watson’s Dodd and Great Dood. These are the peaks I’d planned on walking over yesterday. I stopped for lunch on Great Dodd and pondered where to go next; since I had ran out of high fells I had no choice but to retrace my steps. Returning to Stybarrow Dodd I headed east over White Stones and descended Southeast down the slope at Glencoyne Head. I then ascended the much smaller fell of Sheffield Pike, which being smaller was below the cloud level and gave me tremendous views over Ullswater and up at all the fells around. They were the highlight of the walk. Descending over Heron Pike I headed down into Glenridding just in time to see two coaches full of old women swarming around the souvenir shops. I quickly headed back up the valley and returned to the hostel. Tomorrow I plan on going over St Sunday Crag en route to either Grasmere or Ambleside where I will catch a bus to the station and thence, home.
Friday 25th July 2003
The final walk of the holiday involved walking along Glenridding and up the sides to Lanty’s Tarn before descending into Grisedale. The weather seemed to be improving so I decided to walk up onto the opposite ridge beneath Birks and onto St Sunday Crag. Continuing along the ridge I descended onto Deepdale Hause and the climbed onto Fairfield. After lunch in the clouds I headed off Fairfield onto Hart Crag and thence to Dove Crag down the ridge over High Pike and Low Pike all the way into Ambleside. It was a good walk staying dry and I had some good views when below the cloud level of about 2,500 feet. I caught the bus in Ambleside to the railway station and thence the train home. It was a satisfying end of a good holiday.
Endnote:
Once again it is fascinating to read this more than two years and a lot of hills later. It still astonishes me how inexperienced I was just two years ago. My equipment by this time was up to scratch but I still lacked experience on hills away from the Brecon Beacons. At this time I had never been up any mountain in Snowdonia even Snowdon itself and it wasn’t until later that year that I began build up my confidence in walking in bad weather. The reports showed I was still at this time avoiding bad weather and staying low when it rained. I missed out on going up so many hills during this trip simply because of what I thought the weather would be like, which was prudent at the time, but I think more than anything it taught me about the changeability of the weather.
The very hot weather at the start of the holiday also taught me a number of things. Firstly that factor 8 is unsuitable and I now use factor 15 sun cream. I also decided that as an added protection against the sun I needed a wide-brimmed hat to protect my neck which seems to be particularly sensitive. I have always worn a baseball cap when walking but on this occasion it was found to be not good enough. I now take a sun hat with me as well and have found many times that it works very well. Despite all the things I still had to learn about hill walking I had great time during that holiday. I did some great walks and I will never forget those two days at Black Sail Hut. It was a magical time; just a pity that the whole holiday wasn’t as trouble free.
posted by David Keates at 8:40 pm
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