Walk Report: Helvellyn & the Dodds

Saturday 2nd April
I'm going home so the sun has come out; typical! It's still cold and windy, but the rain has stopped and the clouds have lifted (still a bit hazy though) leaving a lovely day to be outside, it's almost a pity I'm going home. One more walk to do, though, so setting off early I headed up the Glenridding valley crossing the beck and then climbing up the hill beside the Red Tarn Beck. On reaching the tarn I turned right towards the Hole-in-the-Wall to begin my assault on Striding Edge. To be honest I couldn't see what all the fuss has been about! I sailed over the very top of the ridge with large drops either side and with the ridge no more than a foot wide in places. In wet conditions it may be tricky, even worse with snow about, but in the dry and with only a medium cross-wind there was no problem at all. What have I been so nervous about all these years? I have no idea, but I feel I could do any edge now, bring on Crib Goch!

The summit of Helvellyn was as usual bleak in appearance, but unusually it was totally devoid of people at the relatively early time of 11 am, too early for the tourists coming up from the main road. I was merely lucky, I saw the advance guard approaching from over Browncove Crags as I was leaving. After a lingering look at the scenery from the top of Swirral Edge I headed out over Lower Man and down the ridge towards Whiteside; the hills now came thick and fast. Following Whiteside was the rocky Raise and beyond the Sticks Pass, the grassy Stybarrow Dodd followed by the inconsequential Watson's Dodd and the massive Great Dodd.

The descent now begin in earnest as I passed over Little Dodd and down to Calfhow Pike before crossing to Clough Head. There now followed a steep descent down a grassy slope just to the left of White Pike down to the Old Coach Road, Hausewell Brow. Turning left I walked along the old coach road until I reached a gate where I turned towards the north and followed the fence down the hill. Joining the track at Newsham I followed the byway over Mill Bridge where I took the footpath beside the river taking me over the A66 trunk road and into Threlkeld next to the church. After a quick drink at the Horse & Farrier I caught the bus into Penrith and began my journey home. After nine days in the Lake District I was happy to be going home, but I will miss it and look forward to returning next year. I think an annual holiday in the Lake District is a must, there is no better place.

Walk Report: Red Screes, Fairfield & St Sunday Crag

Friday 1st April
It has been another cold, wet and windy day, in fact the weather was the worst of the entire holiday, but I still did my intended walk; I'm not afraid of a few drops of rain! Leaving Elterwater there was a mist in the air, almost a light drizzle, but it didn't seem to last long and it seemed to stay more or less dry for the rest of the morning. I walked beside Great Langdale Beck past the lake Elterwater to Skelwith Bridge (including it's woefully inadequate waterfall). A bit of road walking took me to the start of a bridle path that runs below Loughrigg in to Ambleside. It didn't seem too busy as I shopped for some Kendal Mint Cake but it wasn't long before I was heading up the road out of Ambleside called The Struggle.

After a mile I turned off along the footpath on the left that followed the ridge all the way up to the top of Red Screes. It soon clouded over as I ascended the muddy path and wouldn't see anything but clouds again until I was descending into Grisedale at the end of the walk. After lunch on the top of Red Screes I headed down to the Scandale Pass and it started raining, although it soon stopped it wasn't a long time before it started again, in earnest and it was a long time before it stopped. Continuing west I followed the path over High Bakestones away from the wall blindly trusting that it would take me to, as it did, the stone wall on the top of the ridge south of Dove Crag. Turning right I headed over Dove Crag and Hart Crag (presumably, I never actually saw the summits in the clouds!) before climbing onto Fairfield.

The wind and rain continued as I gingerly descended down to Deepdale Hause and then climbed up to St Sunday Crag, where there was a vicious southerly wind. The wind, however, quickly fell away as I descended on the northerly side and would you believe? The sun came out! The clouds broke and a rainbow appeared since, of course, it was still raining. The rainbow, with ends in Grisedale and Glenamara Park, remained lingering above me as I clambered down to the bottom of Grisedale. The conclusion of the walk involved climbing over the hill by Lanty's Tarn and descending into Glenridding and along to the Helvellyn youth hostel. Tomorrow Striding Edge, Helvellyn and home!

Walk Report: The Coniston Fells (cntd) & Pike of Blisco

Thursday 31st March
Once again the weather was cold, cloudy and windy, ideal walking weather in fact, it is just a pity about the lack of a view. This morning I set off from the Coniston Coppermines youth hostel down the road towards Coniston but turning off to the left near a row of cottages heading up the hillside. I don't know where I made a mistake but I must have strayed onto the old miners track to the disused quarry below Sweeten Crag; I realised I wasn't on the right road when the path petered out soon after the quarry! Going around the edge of the marsh near Kitty Crag I headed north-east towards the ridge I was supposed to have been walking on, crossing over the clear path through Hole Rake on the way. I headed up the side of the ridge never finding a clear path until I finally reached the top of the ridge. Maybe it was an unorthodox route, but I eventually reached my destination so who can complain?

Wetherlam was my first hill in the Lake District; it was a warm July afternoon three years with clear views across the surrounding countryside. I remember it having very good views, but then again I had nothing to compare it with at the time, but today the views were nonexistent, Wetherlam was completely covered in cloud. In the cloud the summit seemed much smaller and rather inconsequential; a lot has changed in three years, oh well. Heading west I bypassed Black Sails and climbed up the Prison Band returning to hill that I had been at the top of yesterday, Swirl How. Continuing west I bypassed Great Carrs and descended the grassy plain of Fairfield before climbing up to the top of Grey Friars, which I'd never been on top of before. The weather was still rather hostile and there was now a strong easterly wind blowing at me while I was on top of Grey Friars. Returning to the top of Great Carrs I paused at the wartime aircraft wreck before beginning the descent over Little Carrs and Hell Gill Pike.

At the marker cairn I turned off the ridge and descended to the Three Shires Stone immediately beginning the ascent up to Red Tarn. The weather now appeared to clear somewhat and I even saw a patch of blue sky above Pike O'Blisco, but the Coniston Fells behind me remained shrouded in clouds. Not being keen on the Cringle Crags I headed up to the Pike of Blisco and then crossing Wrynose Fell I descended the steep staircase-like path to the road. Going around Side Pike I climbed to the top of the ridge and followed the fence across Lingmoor Fell. Despite the limited visibility the walk was highly enjoyable as I skipped across the top of the hills; there really is nothing like hill walking, I love it. After passing the disused quarry I descended the hillside to the byway from Dale End farm into Elterwater. Tomorrow I'll bag Red Screes and also visit Fairfield and St Sunday Crag, but first I'll have to brave Ambleside!

Walk Report: Harter Fell and the Coniston Fells

Wednesday 30th March
Today started grey and cold, but despite the weather I still headed off on another walk on the road up the valley before heading up the bridle path straight after crossing Whahouse Bridge. Once out of the trees into open country I had a steep climb ahead of me up Birker Fell and then up to the top of Harter Fell. It was very cold and overcast, yet it seemed almost like ideal walking weather: there were few people on the fells, and there were none on Harter Fell. I descended towards Dunnerdale Forest but once I entered the Forestry commission land I discovered no trees but a bleak barren landscape where the trees had been. Ennerdale had been in a similar state where the Forestry commission had removed all the trees, but coniferous forests have a destructive effect on the ground, poisoning it so that nothing else can grow. With all the trees gone we are left with nothing but bare earth across the hillsides; this is not what you come to the Lake District to see. It is not a pretty sight and the sooner it is sorted out the better.

After negotiating the steep, barren landscape I descended to the bottom of the valley and crossed the River Duddon. Walking south along the road until I crossed a cattle grid I went over Troutal Tongue and then headed through Tongue House and Long House farms, crossing several muddy fields in the process. Eventually I reached the beginning of the Walna Scar Road and ascended the track to the summit near Brown Pike. Braving the strong wind I headed along the ridge northwards over Brown Pike, Buck Pike and Dow Crag, crossing over Goats Hawse and then climbing up to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston, which was inevitably surrounded by cloud. Heading back north I passed over Brim Fell and climbed up onto Swirl How.

I was now unsure of what to do. I have planned to go along the ridge down from Great Carrs tomorrow but wouldn't it be a good idea if I was to leave something else in this area to do tomorrow? With this in mind, and also with uncertainty on when I'd get to the hostel otherwise, I didn't go up Wetherlam but descended from Swirl Hawse past Levers Water and down to the hostel in the Coppermines Valley. Tomorrow after leaving the Coniston Fells I may go up the Cringle Crags or maybe I'll just walk over Pike O'Blisco and Lingmoor Fell. I'm not sure, we'll see.

Walk Report: Scafell Pike & Sca Fell

Tuesday 29th March
Bright sunshine accompanied me for much of the walk today but despite the good weather I wouldn't rate today's walk as the highlight of the holiday. Last night I was trying to come up with an interesting walk to do today but nothing seemed to work so in the end I had to settle for my original plan: Scafell Pike. So, in glorious weather I began a four mile trudge along the road beside Wastwater to Wasdale Head; great views, but what a waste of a glorious morning. My plan, formulated last night, was to head up to Sty Head along the bridle path that runs up the lower slopes of Great Gable. Last year I had done a walk up this way but stayed at the bottom of the valley beside the river, which turned out to be a rather difficult route as the path pretty much disappears at the head of the valley leaving you with a steep climb in order to get up to Sty Head. This time I was able to take the main path up to Sty Head from Wasdale Head and naturally found it a rather easy path.

The main reason for my going through Sty Head to get to Scafell Pike (besides avoiding the crowds on Brown Tongue) was so I could take the Corridor Route to Lingmell Col. This is superb path is never boring that hugs the side of the hill below Great End weaving around the crags and across the gulleys as it climbs from Sty Head to join the tourist path at the col with Lingmell. I had lunch at the col with my back to the crowds passing up the tourist path gazing out on Great Gable and the surrounding scenery, which looked amazing on this sunny day. Bracing myself I headed up the tourist path up to the crowded summit with relatively little effort. The path was full of families with young children all climbing up to the highest hill in England, God help them; there are far more interesting hills in the Lake District. Clouds were beginning to cover the Pike but I was still able to see the views almost all around the summit, such as they are. I don't think the view from Scafell Pike is particularly noteworthy compared with others in the Lakes.

Quickly beating a retreat I headed across to Broad Stand and with a quick glance at the start of Lord's Rake I made a careful descent down the scree towards the Foxes Tarn route to Sca Fell. Let's face it, there is no easy route from Scafell Pike to Sca Fell; the foxes Tarn route may be the only recommended route given the poor state of Lord's Rake these days, but it's not easy. There is a very steep scree slope to descend and then a lengthy scramble up a gulley to Foxes Tarn, which is made more tricky by the stream coming down. Once at the small tarn you have yet another scree slope to walk up before you reach the summit. It took me an hour to get from one summit to the other, as the eagle flies it's just 900 metres! It may not be easy, but it's quite fun nevertheless.

By now the day had turned colder with the cloud descending everywhere; Sca Fell was now completely covered in cloud, but that didn't dampen my enthusiasm as unlike the pike this summit was almost bare of people. What a difference 14 metres makes! I now had ahead of me a slow descent over Slight Side down into Eskdale. As one looks out from Slight Side the route ahead looks like a rather depressing boggy landscape, but I didn't let that dampen my spirits and quite enjoyed myself as I made the descent. The path was clear for most of way and rather enjoyable once it got down to Catcove Beck and started weaving around the bogs and crags making for a very pleasant, if no-brainer descent into Eskdale. My target tomorrow is the Coniston Fells, but first I need to climb out of Eskdale and then cross the Duddon valley.

Walk Report: Red Pike, Yewbarrow & The Screes

More of my holiday in the Lake District last Easter:

Monday 28th March
The weather today was much better than yesterday with clear views all day even though some hills were in the clouds they were never the ones I was on. It was a lovely, though overcast morning as I set off from the Ennerdale Youth Hostel across the same fields as yesterday but continued straight into the wood and didn't cross the Woundell Beck. After an initial climb I descended to cross the Silvercove Beck but without crossing Deep Gill as I headed up the long tongue between the two streams. This was an enjoyable climb in the cold morning air with stunning views all around and proved to be a much better way of getting onto the ridge. I got to the top considerably earlier than I did yesterday, and I don't the weather was to blame.

Once at the top I veered to the right and walked to the cairn on top of the bare grassy plain of Caw Fell before doubling back on myself. Following the stone wall, and I must admit having a whale of a time in the glorious weather and stunning views, I went over Little Gowder Crag, Haycock, Great Scoat Fell and Little Scoat Fell. I then veered south-east down hill and up to Red Pike, a hill I have missed out on several times, and consequently was the highest hill in the Lakes I had never been up. Chatting merrily to myself I passed over Red pike and descended to Dore Head.

To my left was the infamous Dore Head Screes, a steep descent into Mosedale, now a muddy slope rather than a scree slope. I shuddered at the though of going down it and instead ascended the cliff wall of Stirrup Crag ahead of me. Larger and more technically difficult than the Kirk Fell Crags of yesterday (which I'd only been wary of because I had gone completely wrong attempting them a couple of years ago), it was still not too difficult to climb up them, even if I had to change my line of attach a couple of times. At one time, a couple of years ago, I wasn't too keen on scrambles, but now I can't get enough of them. Funny old bod, aren't I?

After lunch on Yewbarrow I descended the hill finding the scree slopes by the Great Door extremely tricky. I had heard that Yewbarrow had an infamous reputation but wasn't prepared for how difficult it would be. Finally I reached the bottom by the side of Wastwater and began a circumnavigation of the deepest lake in the Lake District. Rounding the north-eastern end by the (closed due to a bridge being rebuilt) National Trust Car Park I headed along the south-eastern shore. Most of the walk is rather pleasant especially in the increasingly sunny afternoon weather, however the second half of the walk was across some fearsome scree slopes (so infamous they are called simply The Screes). At one point you have to literally hop from one boulder to another in an attempt to get across; it was almost with regret that I completed the walk along the shore, it was such great fun. The final stage of the walk was to follow the River Irt to Lund Bridge and then follow the woodland path back along side the river to the lake and around to the youth hostel at Wasdale Hall (with tremendous views over the lake up to Wasdale Head). Tomorrow, Scafell Pike.