The Lakes 2004
I haven't posted anything here for over a month because I haven't done any walking. It's been a very frustrating month with weather that is poor but not really bad and cold enough to make walking exciting. So much for this really cold winter we were supposed to have. I always feel a little trapped here in Leicestershire. I feel as if I am too far away from good walking to be able to go anytime I like. I don't want to go walking in Leicestershire because its boring and at this time of the year really muddy (thats why I want to be really cold). For a few months now I have been without a decent pair of walking boots after I took my old pair back to the shop (the walking in December was done with my old pair). I now have a new pair of walking boots but instead of tramping around everywhere my boots have been stuck in the bottom of the wardrobe. I'm itching to go out but I have nowhere to go.
Instead I have been trying to decide where I can walk later in the year when the weather inproves. Wales is becoming too familiar so more visits to the Lake District will be on the cards. I think the summer will have to be Scotland again while Easter could well be Northern Ireland. I'll have to look into things. In the meantime let me do what I have been meaning to do for months and that is post up the walk report for my holiday in the Lake District back in 2004.
Saturday 10th April
This morning was spent travelling up to the Lake District for my first walking holiday of 2004. Getting to Penrith for noon, I caught the bus to Threlkeld and headed straight up Hall’s Fell Ridge onto Blencathra. Though steep, the going was all right with a clear path leading up most of the way until I hit the rocks on the top of the ridge. From then on it was tough scrambling over the rocks trying to decide where the path went. On a number of occasions I would clamber up some seriously steep rocks only to find a clear path on the other side, but with luck the ascent can easily be made. Reaching the top I found I was in luck, the fells to the south were covered in clouds and mist but Blencathra and Skiddaw were both clear revealing magnificent views across the Solway Firth into Scotland. From Hall’s Fell Top I proceeded west along the top of Blencathra before descending steeply down Bleaze Fell coming out of the bracken at the Car Park near the Blencathra Centre. From there it was a simple walk down the hill to the Keswick Railway Footpath, which I’ve walked along before, taking me all the way into Keswick arriving in the town by 4.30. Tomorrow I shall put aside a demon that has been plaguing me for years: I shall successfully walk up Skiddaw.
Sunday 11th April
Today I finally put Skiddaw behind me. Last year I failed to walk up Skiddaw because of the weather, so this year I wasn’t going to stop for anything. I walked out of Keswick on the tourist route past Latrigg and up the fellside beside Jenkin Hill and onto Little Man. Coming off the main path I walked up to the summit to bag it, then came back down the other side to rejoin the tourist track up to the summit of Skiddaw. There the usual crowds were milling around the top including a man with a huge aerial on his back making radio transmissions! I walked north from the summit to the Lower Man summit, which was curiously devoid of people. In clear weather I’m sure the views northwards would have been terrific, unfortunately today I was surrounded by clouds. However as I returned to the summit the eastern slopes opened up to reveal stunning vistas of the surrounding country.
Eventually I began to descend the loose slate slopes towards Carlside with the scenery opening up to give me glorious sunlit views of the adjacent valleys. The journey down the slate was pathless and a featureless unrelentingly steep slope; I would have hated trying to walk up it. Despite the crowds on the tourist route I think I prefer that to this hard slog. Once down to the col I ascended Carlside to view the scenes of Derwent Water to the south; the weather was improving by the minute producing the picture postcard scenes that you only get in the Lake District. From Carlside I proceeded north along Longside Edge over Ullock Pike and down The Edge. This was a good walk in excellent weather with extensive views to the north and the views to the west and south improving all the time. The summit of Skiddaw was now the only place that was resolutely holding onto its clouds. Once off the Edge I headed back to Keswick through Dodd Wood following the road for much of the way before heading up to Millbeck and Applethwaite where there is a vantage point showing a plan of the view. By now it was a clear hot day with every hill out of the clouds; the view was stunning. Why go abroad when you have views like this? From Applethwaite it was a short walk back down into Keswick.
Tomorrow I’m booked in at Honister but I think I may take a rather indirect route. I want to go up Crag Hill on a route that will take me through Buttermere, but that can’t be helped and with the weather as good as it has been it should be easily possible.
Monday 12th April
Today’s walk was, on paper, a long gruelling slog but I finished too quickly; maybe I shouldn’t have been in a hurry. I left Keswick at 9 am and headed along the Cumbria Way to the foot of Cat Bells before crossing the Newlands Valley to the foot of Rowling End. Heading up the side of the hill I reached the top of the ridge at the col, Sleet Hause, with Causey Pike. Over the Pike I quickly traversed the ridge heading up and over Sail before climbing up onto Crag Hill. Not stopping I headed down the hill-side over Whiteless Pike down into Buttermere. Last night I had anticipated arriving in Buttermere between two and three but due to my rush over Crag Hill I got there at 1-30. Finally stopping I had my lunch before heading back over the hills onto Buttermere Moss. (It was just as spongy as it was last time I was up there!) Once the summit of Robinson had been achieved I headed along the ridge to Dale Head bypassing Hindscarf. Dale Head is a hill that I have failed to get to the top of on two previous occasions, both due to bad weather whilst walking to Keswick. I was determined to succeed this time so trying the walk in the opposite direction was the best way!
From the top of Dale Head I headed down the hill to Honister Hause arriving there at quarter to five, much earlier than I had anticipated. The biggest problem I have in the Lake District is finding a walk which fills the entire day; maybe I ought to slow down and enjoy the walk more; but I did enjoy this walk! Honister is a lovely small hostel, much better than the impersonal Keswick. In a way it has some similarities with Black Sail, speaking of which …. Tomorrow I will go up two big weights of the Lakes: Great Gable and Scafell Pike.
Tuesday 13th April
Today’s weather forecast was for rain this afternoon, fortunately it didn’t start until after I arrived at my destination. The weather has been very cold with patchy low cloud so I got only occasional views from the tops when I was lucky. I left Honister after breakfast and headed straight up the fell-side onto Grey Knotts on a steep rough path, but I never met a soul; inevitably the exception for this walk rather than the rule. I proceeded over Grey Knotts and Brandreth on an easy path following the fence and boundary posts before heading up to Green Gable. Green Gable was in the clouds but the Windy Gap just beyond was clear awarding me with the majestic sight of the nearby clouds blowing up the valley and through the gap. The top of Great Gable was amazingly almost clear, not of clouds but of people. There were three people sitting at the summit but no view was to be seen. After a brief pause in front of the War Memorial I descended the hill all the way down to Sty Head. I have walked along a lot of constructed paths this holiday of varying quality. I thought the path going down Great Gable was very well constructed but the path from Sty Head to Esk Hause is very poor. It’s a gravely path that’s like walking on scree with all the inherent difficulties; on several occasions I bemoaned the path makers. From Esk Hause with clear skies all around (even Great Gable was uncovered) I walked past Great End and over Ill Crag and Broad Crag before arriving at the grossly over-crowded Scafell Pike. It never fails to amaze me how people will only go to one peak simply because of a numerical coincidence that makes it the highest. On Scafell Pike you are surrounded by hundreds of hills many of which are far superior to Scafell Pike and yet it remains the one hill in the Lake District that everyone wants to go up.
The path up to Scafell Pike from Lingmell Col was a fully constructed (I could say over constructed) well-defined path, but the path to Lingmell was almost non-existent so much more enjoyable. After visiting Lingmell I returned to the col and took the fabulous Corridor Route back to Sty Head. This is a really enjoyable path that has retained it’s rough charm even though it has been heavily constructed in places. It hugs the side of the steep fell-side descending to Sty Head traversing many deep streams. From Sty Head I took the seldom used climber’s path across the face of Great Gable. This was a thrilling path as it clung precipitously to the side of the fell crossing boulder fields and sheer scree slopes; my heart was in my mouth on several occasions as I had to negotiate around fallen boulders with a sheer drop just inches away. There were such stunning views to be had of Wasdale and Wastwater that on many occasions I had to stop and just absorb the scenery while clinging to the steep slope for sheer life. Eventually I reached Beck Head where the clouds had now descended so I needed my compass to be sure of my path out around the side of Kirk Fell to Black Sail Pass. Once Black Sail Beck had been crossed I left the path to the pass and descended to the bridlepath down to the Black Sail Hut.
Wednesday 14th April
The weather today was not conducive to walking with strong winds and rain threatened. I abandoned my plan to walk over Pillar, Scoat Fell, Haycock and Red Pike instead I decided that I would explore the mountain passes. Not being in a hurry I left Black Sail hut late and headed up and over Black Sail Pass, which is a good pass with a well-constructed path on the southern side but further down there is some bad erosion. The dale I was descending into was Mosedale (one of many dales with that name), it was quiet and nondescript and in the low cloud it had a secluded feeling. The sight of Dorehead Screes ahead of me was shocking. Allegedly there is a path down there but I couldn’t see how someone could walk down what seemed to me to be a vertical drop. Mosedale leads into Wasdale Head, a familiar starting point for many walkers but I had never been there due to the absence of a Youth Hostel at the northern end of Wasdale.
From Wasdale Head I proceeded along the bridlepath up to Sty Head. There are three paths up to Sty Head and I was expecting well constructed paths but the one I was on deteriorated into a barely perceptible path over and beside many streams. Looking at the map it would seem that I missed the turn off onto the easiest path, which runs across the lower slopes of Great Gable; I was following Lingmell Beck and then Spouthead Gill on the vallet route. I shall have to try this route again to see which way I should have gone. From Sty Head I took the well-used bridlepath to Seathwaite, but even this path appeared indistinct on the early sections beside Taylor Gill. It was fun walking along these routes in poor weather because unlike yesterday there’s hardly anyone around. Yesterday Sty Head was packed with people as I came down to it from Great Gable. Today it was deserted! Of course the path is still easy to follow at this point since it ran beside the gill. From Seathwaite I walked along the road to Seatoller and then up the old toll road to Honister, hurrying in worsening weather and an advancing clock. From Honister I followed the disused tramway to the Drum House where I turned left along the Moses’ Trod as far as the branch to the top of Loft Beck where I descended into Ennerdale and proceeded along to the youth hostel.
Thursday 15th April
Today was a bad weather day with rain almost all day and strong winds; in fact it was the worst weather I’ve ever had in the Lake District and I still didn’t change my plans. Heading away from Back Sail Hut I walked up the Tongue and over the Windy Gap, which was fully fitting its name; it was even hailing at the top! I stumbled down the Aaron Slack, past Sty Head Tarn and along the bridlepath to Angle Tarn. The rain had started near the top of the Tongue and was now persistent. At Angle Tarn I left the bridlepath and took the footpath over the Stake Pass with the paths now becoming much rougher, often indistinct and obviously very wet, and very windy, particularly near the pass. The toughest stage of the day was battling the strong winds blowing through the Stake Pass. Once across the exposed pass I headed up the side of the grassy hill opposite, pathless until I reached the summit of High Raise. Never have I been more thankful for those stone shelters built on many summits! After descending the other side of the hill to Greenup Edge I turned right onto the path down Far Easedale, which although very wet under foot took me all the way into Grasmere. It was a challenging walk in bad weather but having successfully completed it I feel much more confident now of my ability to fell walk in any weather. “If you think you are standing firm, be careful that you don’t fall.” The fall can’t be far off!
Friday 16th April
I feel as if I have been rewarded for my achievements yesterday as today’s weather was perfect as I completed what I thought I would never do. I left Grasmere this morning and headed off on the Coast-to-Coast route up Great Tongue to Grisedale Hause. After that gruelling climb I circumnavigated Grisedale Tarn and walked up the steep side of Dollywagon Pike. Once at the top the rest of the day was a breeze; it was a pure joy. The low cloud quickly cleared to reveal a magnificent panorama. I quickly walked to the summit of Dollywagon Pike, then Nethermost Pike before reaching Helvellyn. The sun was out and there was hardly a breeze, even the crowds seemed unimportant. Carelessly I wandered over to the top of Striding Edge, just to get a closer look at it. To my surprise, before I even knew what I was doing, I found myself climbing down onto and across Striding Edge. The weather conditions were so perfect that I just couldn’t stop myself walking across, and now I’m wondering what the problem was! I guess if the conditions are right anyone can do it.
After lunch at the Hole-in-the-Wall I walked back past Red Tarn and onto Swirral Edge. Backing up I visited Catseye Cam before returning over Swirral Edge and onto Helvellyn. I had heard that the best way to tackle Swirral Edge is to stay on top of the ridge and based on my experience today that seems exactly right; it was relatively easy! Last time up there I’d had trouble in the high wind clutching to the side; how things change! From Helvellyn I walked over Lower Man down the short ridge and over Whiteside before beginning my descent into Glenridding. At Greenside Mine I crossed the river and continued around the side of the hill below Birkhouse Moor to Lanty’s Tarn and down into Grisedale. The youth hostel in Patterdale was reached by walking along the path below Glenamara Park. Tomorrow is my last day in the Lakes and I am going to put aside yet another hill that has eluded me on many occasions: High Street.
Saturday 17th April
This was the last day of the holiday so it was a rather sad day as I walked the fells for the last time. I had a deadline today because I had a bus to catch at the end of the walk that I mustn't miss, so on parts of the walk I went very quickly to ensure I wasn’t stranded! I left Patterdale as early as I could and headed over the river walking south along the eastern side of the valley eventually reaching Hartsop. From the car park on the other side of Hartsop I had a hard slog up Hartsop Dodd but was rewarded with tremendous views of the surrounding hills. From the top I had a rather uneventful walk following the wall across Caudale Moor to the summit of Stony Cove Pike. Turning left I clambered down the rocks to Threshthwaite Mouth and then up the scree slope to the beacon on Thornthwaite Crag. Following the bridlepath across the hilltop I headed up High Street veering to the right away near the top in order to hit the summit of Racecourse Hill. After lunch I headed north for the long trek along the Roman road, High Street, bearing right over Rampsgill Head I headed over High Raise. After a pause on High Raise I headed in what I assumed was the right direction, but when I saw another ridge on the left I realised that I should have been on that one! Sometimes a compass should be used even in clear weather! On reaching the correct path I followed it over Raven Howe, Red Crag, Wether Hill and over Loadpot Hill. My pace was now very quick over easy ground with the bus times ever in my mind. From Loadpot Hill it was down hill all the way across Barton Fell and Askham Fell where I left High Street trying to get to Askham. The path was now rather chaotic and despite what the map says there is no clear path straight across Moor Dicock to Askham. I had to determine my destination using my map & compass and heading in that general direction; once again we see that a compass is necessary even in clear weather. I made it to Askham in plenty of time for the bus and was able to begin my journey home. I hope it isn’t too long before I am back in the Lake District.
Conclusions
In this report we see that the problems with equipment and my lack of experience with bad weather is no more. After some hesitation I walked all the way from Ennerdale to Grasmere in torrential rain. I remember being asked by several parties on the way where I was going, I think they were concerned for a solitary walker in such bad weather, but I had no problems. I was even able to give advise to a large group of people who were unsure which way Angle Tarn was. I was able to point them in the right direction and make myself look good to the young lady I was walking with. Of course it helped that I had walked along that very spot just two days previously in much better weather conditons!
Instead I have been trying to decide where I can walk later in the year when the weather inproves. Wales is becoming too familiar so more visits to the Lake District will be on the cards. I think the summer will have to be Scotland again while Easter could well be Northern Ireland. I'll have to look into things. In the meantime let me do what I have been meaning to do for months and that is post up the walk report for my holiday in the Lake District back in 2004.
Saturday 10th April
This morning was spent travelling up to the Lake District for my first walking holiday of 2004. Getting to Penrith for noon, I caught the bus to Threlkeld and headed straight up Hall’s Fell Ridge onto Blencathra. Though steep, the going was all right with a clear path leading up most of the way until I hit the rocks on the top of the ridge. From then on it was tough scrambling over the rocks trying to decide where the path went. On a number of occasions I would clamber up some seriously steep rocks only to find a clear path on the other side, but with luck the ascent can easily be made. Reaching the top I found I was in luck, the fells to the south were covered in clouds and mist but Blencathra and Skiddaw were both clear revealing magnificent views across the Solway Firth into Scotland. From Hall’s Fell Top I proceeded west along the top of Blencathra before descending steeply down Bleaze Fell coming out of the bracken at the Car Park near the Blencathra Centre. From there it was a simple walk down the hill to the Keswick Railway Footpath, which I’ve walked along before, taking me all the way into Keswick arriving in the town by 4.30. Tomorrow I shall put aside a demon that has been plaguing me for years: I shall successfully walk up Skiddaw.
Sunday 11th April
Today I finally put Skiddaw behind me. Last year I failed to walk up Skiddaw because of the weather, so this year I wasn’t going to stop for anything. I walked out of Keswick on the tourist route past Latrigg and up the fellside beside Jenkin Hill and onto Little Man. Coming off the main path I walked up to the summit to bag it, then came back down the other side to rejoin the tourist track up to the summit of Skiddaw. There the usual crowds were milling around the top including a man with a huge aerial on his back making radio transmissions! I walked north from the summit to the Lower Man summit, which was curiously devoid of people. In clear weather I’m sure the views northwards would have been terrific, unfortunately today I was surrounded by clouds. However as I returned to the summit the eastern slopes opened up to reveal stunning vistas of the surrounding country.
Eventually I began to descend the loose slate slopes towards Carlside with the scenery opening up to give me glorious sunlit views of the adjacent valleys. The journey down the slate was pathless and a featureless unrelentingly steep slope; I would have hated trying to walk up it. Despite the crowds on the tourist route I think I prefer that to this hard slog. Once down to the col I ascended Carlside to view the scenes of Derwent Water to the south; the weather was improving by the minute producing the picture postcard scenes that you only get in the Lake District. From Carlside I proceeded north along Longside Edge over Ullock Pike and down The Edge. This was a good walk in excellent weather with extensive views to the north and the views to the west and south improving all the time. The summit of Skiddaw was now the only place that was resolutely holding onto its clouds. Once off the Edge I headed back to Keswick through Dodd Wood following the road for much of the way before heading up to Millbeck and Applethwaite where there is a vantage point showing a plan of the view. By now it was a clear hot day with every hill out of the clouds; the view was stunning. Why go abroad when you have views like this? From Applethwaite it was a short walk back down into Keswick.
Tomorrow I’m booked in at Honister but I think I may take a rather indirect route. I want to go up Crag Hill on a route that will take me through Buttermere, but that can’t be helped and with the weather as good as it has been it should be easily possible.
Monday 12th April
Today’s walk was, on paper, a long gruelling slog but I finished too quickly; maybe I shouldn’t have been in a hurry. I left Keswick at 9 am and headed along the Cumbria Way to the foot of Cat Bells before crossing the Newlands Valley to the foot of Rowling End. Heading up the side of the hill I reached the top of the ridge at the col, Sleet Hause, with Causey Pike. Over the Pike I quickly traversed the ridge heading up and over Sail before climbing up onto Crag Hill. Not stopping I headed down the hill-side over Whiteless Pike down into Buttermere. Last night I had anticipated arriving in Buttermere between two and three but due to my rush over Crag Hill I got there at 1-30. Finally stopping I had my lunch before heading back over the hills onto Buttermere Moss. (It was just as spongy as it was last time I was up there!) Once the summit of Robinson had been achieved I headed along the ridge to Dale Head bypassing Hindscarf. Dale Head is a hill that I have failed to get to the top of on two previous occasions, both due to bad weather whilst walking to Keswick. I was determined to succeed this time so trying the walk in the opposite direction was the best way!
From the top of Dale Head I headed down the hill to Honister Hause arriving there at quarter to five, much earlier than I had anticipated. The biggest problem I have in the Lake District is finding a walk which fills the entire day; maybe I ought to slow down and enjoy the walk more; but I did enjoy this walk! Honister is a lovely small hostel, much better than the impersonal Keswick. In a way it has some similarities with Black Sail, speaking of which …. Tomorrow I will go up two big weights of the Lakes: Great Gable and Scafell Pike.
Tuesday 13th April
Today’s weather forecast was for rain this afternoon, fortunately it didn’t start until after I arrived at my destination. The weather has been very cold with patchy low cloud so I got only occasional views from the tops when I was lucky. I left Honister after breakfast and headed straight up the fell-side onto Grey Knotts on a steep rough path, but I never met a soul; inevitably the exception for this walk rather than the rule. I proceeded over Grey Knotts and Brandreth on an easy path following the fence and boundary posts before heading up to Green Gable. Green Gable was in the clouds but the Windy Gap just beyond was clear awarding me with the majestic sight of the nearby clouds blowing up the valley and through the gap. The top of Great Gable was amazingly almost clear, not of clouds but of people. There were three people sitting at the summit but no view was to be seen. After a brief pause in front of the War Memorial I descended the hill all the way down to Sty Head. I have walked along a lot of constructed paths this holiday of varying quality. I thought the path going down Great Gable was very well constructed but the path from Sty Head to Esk Hause is very poor. It’s a gravely path that’s like walking on scree with all the inherent difficulties; on several occasions I bemoaned the path makers. From Esk Hause with clear skies all around (even Great Gable was uncovered) I walked past Great End and over Ill Crag and Broad Crag before arriving at the grossly over-crowded Scafell Pike. It never fails to amaze me how people will only go to one peak simply because of a numerical coincidence that makes it the highest. On Scafell Pike you are surrounded by hundreds of hills many of which are far superior to Scafell Pike and yet it remains the one hill in the Lake District that everyone wants to go up.
The path up to Scafell Pike from Lingmell Col was a fully constructed (I could say over constructed) well-defined path, but the path to Lingmell was almost non-existent so much more enjoyable. After visiting Lingmell I returned to the col and took the fabulous Corridor Route back to Sty Head. This is a really enjoyable path that has retained it’s rough charm even though it has been heavily constructed in places. It hugs the side of the steep fell-side descending to Sty Head traversing many deep streams. From Sty Head I took the seldom used climber’s path across the face of Great Gable. This was a thrilling path as it clung precipitously to the side of the fell crossing boulder fields and sheer scree slopes; my heart was in my mouth on several occasions as I had to negotiate around fallen boulders with a sheer drop just inches away. There were such stunning views to be had of Wasdale and Wastwater that on many occasions I had to stop and just absorb the scenery while clinging to the steep slope for sheer life. Eventually I reached Beck Head where the clouds had now descended so I needed my compass to be sure of my path out around the side of Kirk Fell to Black Sail Pass. Once Black Sail Beck had been crossed I left the path to the pass and descended to the bridlepath down to the Black Sail Hut.
Wednesday 14th April
The weather today was not conducive to walking with strong winds and rain threatened. I abandoned my plan to walk over Pillar, Scoat Fell, Haycock and Red Pike instead I decided that I would explore the mountain passes. Not being in a hurry I left Black Sail hut late and headed up and over Black Sail Pass, which is a good pass with a well-constructed path on the southern side but further down there is some bad erosion. The dale I was descending into was Mosedale (one of many dales with that name), it was quiet and nondescript and in the low cloud it had a secluded feeling. The sight of Dorehead Screes ahead of me was shocking. Allegedly there is a path down there but I couldn’t see how someone could walk down what seemed to me to be a vertical drop. Mosedale leads into Wasdale Head, a familiar starting point for many walkers but I had never been there due to the absence of a Youth Hostel at the northern end of Wasdale.
From Wasdale Head I proceeded along the bridlepath up to Sty Head. There are three paths up to Sty Head and I was expecting well constructed paths but the one I was on deteriorated into a barely perceptible path over and beside many streams. Looking at the map it would seem that I missed the turn off onto the easiest path, which runs across the lower slopes of Great Gable; I was following Lingmell Beck and then Spouthead Gill on the vallet route. I shall have to try this route again to see which way I should have gone. From Sty Head I took the well-used bridlepath to Seathwaite, but even this path appeared indistinct on the early sections beside Taylor Gill. It was fun walking along these routes in poor weather because unlike yesterday there’s hardly anyone around. Yesterday Sty Head was packed with people as I came down to it from Great Gable. Today it was deserted! Of course the path is still easy to follow at this point since it ran beside the gill. From Seathwaite I walked along the road to Seatoller and then up the old toll road to Honister, hurrying in worsening weather and an advancing clock. From Honister I followed the disused tramway to the Drum House where I turned left along the Moses’ Trod as far as the branch to the top of Loft Beck where I descended into Ennerdale and proceeded along to the youth hostel.
Thursday 15th April
Today was a bad weather day with rain almost all day and strong winds; in fact it was the worst weather I’ve ever had in the Lake District and I still didn’t change my plans. Heading away from Back Sail Hut I walked up the Tongue and over the Windy Gap, which was fully fitting its name; it was even hailing at the top! I stumbled down the Aaron Slack, past Sty Head Tarn and along the bridlepath to Angle Tarn. The rain had started near the top of the Tongue and was now persistent. At Angle Tarn I left the bridlepath and took the footpath over the Stake Pass with the paths now becoming much rougher, often indistinct and obviously very wet, and very windy, particularly near the pass. The toughest stage of the day was battling the strong winds blowing through the Stake Pass. Once across the exposed pass I headed up the side of the grassy hill opposite, pathless until I reached the summit of High Raise. Never have I been more thankful for those stone shelters built on many summits! After descending the other side of the hill to Greenup Edge I turned right onto the path down Far Easedale, which although very wet under foot took me all the way into Grasmere. It was a challenging walk in bad weather but having successfully completed it I feel much more confident now of my ability to fell walk in any weather. “If you think you are standing firm, be careful that you don’t fall.” The fall can’t be far off!
Friday 16th April
I feel as if I have been rewarded for my achievements yesterday as today’s weather was perfect as I completed what I thought I would never do. I left Grasmere this morning and headed off on the Coast-to-Coast route up Great Tongue to Grisedale Hause. After that gruelling climb I circumnavigated Grisedale Tarn and walked up the steep side of Dollywagon Pike. Once at the top the rest of the day was a breeze; it was a pure joy. The low cloud quickly cleared to reveal a magnificent panorama. I quickly walked to the summit of Dollywagon Pike, then Nethermost Pike before reaching Helvellyn. The sun was out and there was hardly a breeze, even the crowds seemed unimportant. Carelessly I wandered over to the top of Striding Edge, just to get a closer look at it. To my surprise, before I even knew what I was doing, I found myself climbing down onto and across Striding Edge. The weather conditions were so perfect that I just couldn’t stop myself walking across, and now I’m wondering what the problem was! I guess if the conditions are right anyone can do it.
After lunch at the Hole-in-the-Wall I walked back past Red Tarn and onto Swirral Edge. Backing up I visited Catseye Cam before returning over Swirral Edge and onto Helvellyn. I had heard that the best way to tackle Swirral Edge is to stay on top of the ridge and based on my experience today that seems exactly right; it was relatively easy! Last time up there I’d had trouble in the high wind clutching to the side; how things change! From Helvellyn I walked over Lower Man down the short ridge and over Whiteside before beginning my descent into Glenridding. At Greenside Mine I crossed the river and continued around the side of the hill below Birkhouse Moor to Lanty’s Tarn and down into Grisedale. The youth hostel in Patterdale was reached by walking along the path below Glenamara Park. Tomorrow is my last day in the Lakes and I am going to put aside yet another hill that has eluded me on many occasions: High Street.
Saturday 17th April
This was the last day of the holiday so it was a rather sad day as I walked the fells for the last time. I had a deadline today because I had a bus to catch at the end of the walk that I mustn't miss, so on parts of the walk I went very quickly to ensure I wasn’t stranded! I left Patterdale as early as I could and headed over the river walking south along the eastern side of the valley eventually reaching Hartsop. From the car park on the other side of Hartsop I had a hard slog up Hartsop Dodd but was rewarded with tremendous views of the surrounding hills. From the top I had a rather uneventful walk following the wall across Caudale Moor to the summit of Stony Cove Pike. Turning left I clambered down the rocks to Threshthwaite Mouth and then up the scree slope to the beacon on Thornthwaite Crag. Following the bridlepath across the hilltop I headed up High Street veering to the right away near the top in order to hit the summit of Racecourse Hill. After lunch I headed north for the long trek along the Roman road, High Street, bearing right over Rampsgill Head I headed over High Raise. After a pause on High Raise I headed in what I assumed was the right direction, but when I saw another ridge on the left I realised that I should have been on that one! Sometimes a compass should be used even in clear weather! On reaching the correct path I followed it over Raven Howe, Red Crag, Wether Hill and over Loadpot Hill. My pace was now very quick over easy ground with the bus times ever in my mind. From Loadpot Hill it was down hill all the way across Barton Fell and Askham Fell where I left High Street trying to get to Askham. The path was now rather chaotic and despite what the map says there is no clear path straight across Moor Dicock to Askham. I had to determine my destination using my map & compass and heading in that general direction; once again we see that a compass is necessary even in clear weather. I made it to Askham in plenty of time for the bus and was able to begin my journey home. I hope it isn’t too long before I am back in the Lake District.
Conclusions
In this report we see that the problems with equipment and my lack of experience with bad weather is no more. After some hesitation I walked all the way from Ennerdale to Grasmere in torrential rain. I remember being asked by several parties on the way where I was going, I think they were concerned for a solitary walker in such bad weather, but I had no problems. I was even able to give advise to a large group of people who were unsure which way Angle Tarn was. I was able to point them in the right direction and make myself look good to the young lady I was walking with. Of course it helped that I had walked along that very spot just two days previously in much better weather conditons!
posted by David Keates at 6:03 pm
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